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浏览：70次 | 提问时间： 08-04 10:54

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6个答案

你们的背叛让我撕心裂肺 08-04 10:55

竖向清扫口正常1米高度。

刀枪不入 08-04 11:03

毛坏墙的情况:地面排水口应距墙面330-350mm，或:420-430mm。以对应马桶的300mm或400mm的眼距。马桶的眼距:马桶的排水口中心距马桶体最外侧的距离。蹲便器:地面排水口距墙面应在600mm以上。现在的便器(无论什么便器)已经将反水弯与器体形成一体了，没有以前分体的便器了。反水弯就是防味的，不论前排后排。左右面最少要400mm空间。卫生间下水管道安装1、水管安装后一定要进行增压测试：增压测试一般是在1.5倍水压的情况下进行,在测试中应没有漏水现象。2、在没有加压条件下的简单测试方法，但不完全可行。1)关闭水管总阀。(即水表前面的水管开关)2)打开房间里面的水龙头20分钟，确保没水再滴后关闭所有的水龙头。3)关闭马桶水箱和洗衣机等具有蓄水功能的设备进水开关。4)打开水管总阀。5)打开总阀后20分钟查看水表是否走动，包括缓慢的走动。如果有走动，即为漏水了。如果没有走动，可能没事。(如果水表有问题或水管微渗，有可能难以确定。)所以建议施工完一定要进行水压测试实验，一般打压8公斤，时间20-30分钟。3、水管走向：建议水管走顶最安全。主要是水路改造大部分走暗管，而水的特性是水往低处流。如果管路走地下，一但发生漏水很难及时发现，只有水漫金山或者地板变形以及漏到楼下，才会发现漏水，且由于水管暗埋很难查出漏水之处。这时巨大的损失更是无法挽回，甚至严重的影响了友好的邻里关系;如果水管走顶部，可能水改时费用高些，但做为一项长远投资来看，是值得的。水管走顶，即使漏水，也能够及时发现，便于检修，损失也较小。

别忘了要快乐 08-04 11:12

但是存水，方便管道的清理，有时候它会很耽误事，防味的小件可以在室内设置，现在不少住宅没有此水件。排水设计时想的很不错，以防化粪池的气味反到室内

你是我触不到的光ペ 08-04 11:20

如果楼下不能施工，只好加高卫生间地面，这样卫生间的空间高度就比较小，使管道能够畅通才行，然后安装座便器，你可以重新在地板上钻一个孔，在地面做好防水处理，把下水管道延长连接如果楼下可以施工

予取予求 08-04 11:28

其实这只是一种习惯和行业规则。虽然现在都是PPR的水管。不然人用起来会很不舒服。最重要的话语来了，都多多少少有人体工程学的影子。如果你非得问为什么，有一种说法是说右撇子比较多，上热下冷的原则，以前可都是金属水管（虽然现在就有）：凡是关乎于人类使用的东西。请记住，可是别忘了？只能告诉这是一种大众习惯：*规定水龙头必须规定左热右冷，都是行业习惯这个布管倒是没有特别规定

难懂 08-04 11:37

以上建议希望对你有帮助，并由此*出臭气。只是看不出有没有存水弯管.你加的那个反向三通完全不可以，当粪便等半固体污物冲过来时会倒灌？应该用空心填坑煤渣球（很便宜，请确认，堆积.7.必须改回顺管或直管，事后才发现就晚了.热水管应该是红色的吧.一般下水主管分粪便和污水的，堵塞左下角地漏.4。2？你再确认一下，如果墙的另一侧是非瓷砖墙（包括可能是别人家的）。你其实只要加存水弯管就好了！相应位置防水至少做到1，把左下角地漏接回马桶管后端（原来的位置），光滑又轻，与冷水有区别.5米（视乎喷淋的高度）再贴瓷砖.3.你的填坑物怎么用硬的废弃水泥块.6，7-8元一包）。硬物会可能在填埋是压划伤爆水管，其实原来的水路是合理的，太近的话将来开关很麻烦有几个问题，完全没问题的.3-1.5.你的防水似乎只做了地面.如果真是共用的，怎么这里是公用的，越冲越紧。因为只是排洗澡洗衣水，将来会渗水导致墙面起皮.马桶进水的角阀位置请与自己定的马桶尺寸再三确认：1

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