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怎样安装家用空调

怎样安装家用空调

浏览：40次 | 提问时间： 08-10 08:47

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3个答案

杀她死 08-10 08:48

你试着我说的看看你行不：一：空调调制到制冷档位。二：用内六方扳手快速关*高压管（细管-流动的是制冷液液体）三：然后在用内六放慢慢地关*低压管（粗管-流动的是制冷液气体）关粗管子的时间大概是一分钟左右，你用手感觉两跟管子的温度基本一样变温了，就OK了，这时要抓紧时间关闭空调，把掉电源~就OK了~！还要注意的是卸掉的管子口一定要封闭好，不要进脏东西和灰尘，房子脏堵~！管子不要握*弯要不影响制冷~

小三胸大是因为揉的人多 08-10 08:56

1.首先要防止雨水从穿墙孔向室内倒灌。在空调安装过程中，必须打一个室内稍高一些的穿墙孔。安装完成后，穿墙孔的空隙必须用油灰堵好，如果是使用楼道内的排水孔，也要注意类似的问题。2.在空调安装过程中防止氟里昂泄漏。空调安装完毕后，一定要让安装人员对空调连接口进行检漏，以防氟里昂泄漏。3.防止室外漏水。空调在冬季制热时，会因化霜而有水滴出。所以安装空调时要特别注意室外机出水嘴和出水管。4.防止室内漏水。要保证空调制冷时产生的冷凝水能够排到室外，安装时可以在空调器的接水盘中倒入一点水，检查一下是否能排到室外。5.如室外机和室内机相隔距离超过3米要加制冷管和排水管电线时一定看仔细所加铜管和电线是否为原空调使用同品。6.空调室外机不可随处安装，其位置的选择应有利于今后的维修与保养。7.室外机(压缩机)安装必须要端正,安装工人必须用水平尺找平。8.室外机支架要用规定配套涨栓,而且必须要够数,谨防工人为了施工方便省略几个涨栓,日后麻烦多多。9.在延长制冷铜管时会用气焊将延长铜管焊接在原铜管上,注意要求工人用银焊条焊接,禁止使用铜焊条焊接。10.延长的制冷铜管一定要用保温套包严实,并用绑带缠好。11.在用绑带缠绕制冷管和电线排水管也有讲究,要按照安装空调标准*作,否则缠绕不多时会造成雨水顺延塑料胶带流进屋里的现象。

Tearssmle 08-10 09:05

安装家用空调：一、准备工作　　1、对于室外机安装位置应符合以下要求：　　(1)地面或墙体要能承受机体的重量自振动;　　(2)安装的部位要便于*作、调整与维修;　　(3)外机运转时发生的噪音及冷(热)风、冷凝水不能影响他人的工作、学习和生活;　　(4)外机周围不能有可燃性气体泄漏;　　(5)外机尽可能安装于背明地方。　　2、室内机安装位置应符合以下要来：　　(1)避免太阳直射在机组上，远离热源;　　(2)内机的进、出风口处，不应自障碍物。　　测量内、外机之间的距离。内、外机之间距离应小于5米，大于5米应准备新的连接铜管。　　测量内、外机之间位差。内、外机之间位差距离应小于3米，否则舍降低空调器的制冷能力，增大压缩机负荷，引起过载启动。二、安装　　1、确定内、外机位置后，立即安装好内机挂板，待外机与内机挂板安装牢固以后，再把连接管捋平直，查看管道是否有弯瘪现象;接下来应检查两端喇叭口是否有裂纹，如有裂纹，应重新扩口，否则会漏氟。最后，检查控制线是否有短路、断路现象，在确定管路、控制线、出水管良好后，把它们绑扎在一起并将连接管口密封好。过墙时应两个人在墙内、外配合缓慢穿出，避免拉伤;连接好管道与内、外机，并接好控制线。　　2、排除管道和内机中的空气。方法是这样;(1)把连接好的外机接头拧紧(细)，用专用扳手松开截止阀门的阀杆1圈左右;(2)听到外机接头(粗)吱吱响声，30 秒左右，用钣手拧紧(粗)接头;(3)松开(粗)管上戴止阀门的阀杆;(4)彻底松开(细)管上截止阀门的阀杆。这时空凋器排空结束。　　3、用洗涤剂进行检漏，仔细观察每一个接头有无气泡冒出，验明系统确无泄漏后，旋紧阀门保险帽，即可开机试运行。三、运行调试　　1、空调器安装完毕，应辅设*的空调器使用电源线路，家用分体式空凋的电源线一般有ф1.5-2(mm)2三股铜芯线。插座为 220V、15A规格。　　2、通电前位查一下电压，再用遥控器启动运行。室外机工作以后，检查运行电流是否与铭牌标注相一致，如小于铭牌标注的电流可视为氟利昂量少，不急于加氟，可继续观察管道接头处的结露或结霜情况。　　3、任何一台分体空调器正常运行应符合下列条件：(l)低压压力4.9kg/cm2-5.4kg/cm2;(2)连接管只能结露，不能结霜;(3)运行电流与铭牌标注的是不相一致;(4)内机出风口温度符合要求，即夏天(12一16)℃;冬天(35-40)℃。室内温度，夏天25-28℃，冬天(18-23)℃。

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